Frequently Asked Questions

International Couriers (ICT, DHL) including full tracking is used when sending knives out of South Africa. The Tracking information will be shared with you so that you can track the packages progress. Aftership will also send updates with you as info becomes available. 
For all knives custom or otherwise I do not take a deposit (Unless there is customisations that are unique to you). We will also have a finalized design, confirming and specifying the details of your knife. 

Further alterations to the aforementioned design, can incur additional charges and potentially delay the completion of your knife.

Contact me via my contact page and I can help. You can view my gallery of past knives and see what appeals to you or knowing what you want to use it for is the starting point. Read: How to choose the perfect kitchen knife

  • Traditional Western – Full Tang
  • Eastern Octagon – Full Tang
  • Eastern Octagon – Hidden Tang
  • Eastern D-shape – Hidden Tang

I use a number of different natural and synthetic materials that are both functional for use in a kitchen (stable, sterile, hard wearing) and beautiful to hold and see.

  • African Hardwoods: African Black wood, Tambootie, Redbush Willow, Leadwood, Swart Eyster Hoet, Sneezewood,  Wild Olive, Purple Flat Bean.
  • Synthetics: G10, Tufnol, Micarta, Richlite.
  • Other Naturals: Mammoth Molar, Stabilized Burls, Giraffe Bone, Warthog Tusk.
Yes. I can make you a sheath or in the case of kitchen knives, a blade guard, for your knife made from either leather, kydex or wood (saya). This is an additional cost.
Yes. Absolutely. Knives make wonderful presents that can be treasured for a lifetime. If you give us the address and the name of the recipient we can send it.
Be sure to check with me regarding delivery dates as I may not be able to meet the required delivery time at short notice.
Like I say in my about page, my style of knife is a blend of Japanese and western (European) cutlery. Performance and clean lines are paramount for me and I spend a lot of time tweaking and refining my designs. Read: Best CAD software for knifemakers
Your knife will be the best knife that I can possibly make. 
The choice of Japanese or Western style of knife is very much down to your cutting style or prefernce. Both style of knives feature similar performance grinds.
  • Japanese knives tend to have flatter belly or cutting edge and are better for push cuts.
  • Western (European) knives have more of a curved belly and are better suited for roll cuts.
A full tang blade is where the steel runs through the full length of the handle. It makes for a much stronger knife but quite frankly you should not be doing anything with a kitchen knife that requires that level of toughness.

Japanese knives for instance are all hidden tang and represent a tried and tested design.  Therefore, for the purpose of kitchen knives, both are good choices and mainly comes down to aesthetics.

Read the blog post: Japanese or Western Handles
Essentially  you have two types of steel – high carbon and stainless steel which have strengths and weaknesses.
  • Bohler K110 (D2)
  • Bohler N690
  • Bohler Elmax
  • Bohler K460 (01)
  • Balbachdamast Inox (Stainless Damascus)
  • Others available upon request / dependant on availability
I will always use steels from reputable manufacturers like Bohler Uddeholm (Austria), Balbachdamast (Germany) or Sandvik (Sweden) for the construction of the blades. This is because the chemistry of the steel is known, verifiable and heat treatment specs are available, to ensure good hardness levels in the final product.
High carbon / Non-stainless steel will form a natural patina over time. The patina will protect the steel blade from rust and environmental damage and is usually considered aesthetically pleasing to the eye. Read: How to force a patina

All high carbon knife blades need to be dried and oiled to keep rust at bay. Read: How to care for your knife
Balance is especially important in kitchen knives because you don’t want the point of the blade or the handle to be too heavy. It should be evenly weighted so that it is nimble and light when in use.

The balance point of the knife in most kitchen knives needs to be approximately where your index finger rests on the handle.

For cleavers, the balance point is 2/3rd up the blade.

Yes I do. I use Japanese water stones and can dial in very acute or robust edges.

  1. If the knife is a knife of my creation then sharpening is free for life as long as you cover shipping and postage.
  2. If the knife is a factory, production knife or made by someone else, sharpening starts from 150 ZAR depending on the condition of the knife. If there is heavy chipping, the blade will need to be thinned as well as sharpened, leading to additional costs. You can send picture for a quote before sending your knife. Sharpening Service