Frequently Asked Questions
Contact me via my contact page and I can help. You can view my gallery of past knives and see what appeals to you or knowing what you want to use it for is the starting point. Read: How to choose the perfect kitchen knife
- Traditional Western – Full Tang
- Eastern Octagon – Full Tang
- Eastern Octagon – Hidden Tang
- Eastern D-shape – Hidden Tang
I use a number of different natural and synthetic materials that are both functional for use in a kitchen (stable, sterile, hard wearing) and beautiful to hold and see.
- African Hardwoods: African Black wood, Tambootie, Redbush Willow, Leadwood, Swart Eyster Hoet, Sneezewood, Wild Olive, Purple Flat Bean.
- Synthetics: G10, Tufnol, Micarta, Richlite.
- Other Naturals: Mammoth Molar, Stabilized Burls, Giraffe Bone, Warthog Tusk.
- Japanese knives tend to have flatter belly or cutting edge and are better for push cuts.
- Western (European) knives have more of a curved belly and are better suited for roll cuts.
- Bohler K110 (D2)
- Bohler N690
- Bohler Elmax
- Bohler K460 (01)
- Balbachdamast Inox (Stainless Damascus)
- Others available upon request / dependant on availability
Yes I do. I use Japanese water stones and can dial in very acute or robust edges.
- If the knife is a knife of my creation then sharpening is free for life as long as you cover shipping and postage.
- If the knife is a factory, production knife or made by someone else, sharpening starts from 150 ZAR depending on the condition of the knife. If there is heavy chipping, the blade will need to be thinned as well as sharpened, leading to additional costs. You can send picture for a quote before sending your knife. Sharpening Service